I visited Pubnico, Nova Scotia, home of Philippe Mius d’Entremont, in the summer of 2024.
Pubnico is much more than simply Philippe’s home. He founded the first European settlement which was called by its Mi’kmaq name, Pobomcoup, which meant something like “the place where holes are made in the ice for fishing.” In 1653 Charles St. Etienne de La Tour granted Philippe this land, officially making him Philippe Mius d’Entremont, Baron of Pobomcoup.
Pobomcoup is spelled variously in records – likely phonetically.
The Native people hunted and fished here, and the French traded, but no Europeans settled permanently in this remote part of Acadia until Philippe arrived.
Philippe chose this beautiful stretch of coastline, where land and sea are interwoven, in which to settle his family and establish his seigneury. Not many people get to make that selection.
His was the first European family to sink roots here, and they grew into an entire dynasty.
It’s the very remoteness – and the challenges of living beside the sometimes angry Atlantic – that has preserved Acadian culture here, largely untouched by the bustle of larger cities or even towns. You can travel for miles along the coast, and while you’ll see lots of boats, fishermen, and marine gear, you’ll only occasionally pass by a grocery, gas station, or restaurant – and by that, I mean literally one or two.
Today, the surnames of both Mius and d’Entremont, the name used by Philippe’s son, Jacques, along with Duon, are the most prominent names among the 3000 or so residents in Pubnico.
The French accent here is unique, as are the mannerisms, food and customs.
The Pubnico Acadians escaped the expulsions of 1755 and 1756, but were brutally removed by the English in 1758. The village was pillaged by English soldiers, the church and rectory ransacked, along with the d’Entremont manor house. Then, on September 23, 1758, the entire village, including the d’Entremont home, was burned so that those who had fled into the woods could not return and support themselves.
Nine years later, in 1767, after the war between England and France ended, some families who had been living in exile were granted permission to return and rebuild, although the location of the original settlement, or settlements, remains uncertain today.
Philippe’s descendants resettled in the same area, even though the English had already been given the Acadian farms – and began life in Pubnico, around the harbour, anew.
Today, almost 260 years later, every single person that I met in or even near Pubnico is descended one way or another – often in several ways – from Philippe Mius d’Entremont.
One binding attribute is their fierce pride in Acadian heritage, roots and Philippe himself. History is not lost here. It’s lived, and every schoolchild learns their story and about their ancestors.
Philippe is the grandfather, someplace around 10 generations back in time for everyone in Pubnico. His blood, and his DNA, runs in all of our veins. Today, on WikiTree, Philippe has more than 110,000 documented descendants, so he probably has many more who aren’t reflected there.
Returning Home
I spent several absolutely joyous days in the land of my ancestors. Not only is the land sacred, it’s breathtakingly beautiful and utterly glorious, even without the ancestral connection.
I truly felt as if I had come home after a forever absence, basking in warm sunlight and watching sunbeams dance on the waves as earthly cares melted away.
I spent the first few days outside of Halifax.
Well, truth be told, I had to leave the states a couple of days early to avoid Hurricane Debby, but as it turned out, I needed every single minute in Nova Scotia – so I’m viewing that as ancestral intervention!
“Come home NOW!”
After a long day traveling, including two layovers, I finally arrived, picked up my rental car and headed off, serenaded by the thwap, thwap, thwap of the windshield wipers.
Fate
You know, fate’s funny sometimes. This wasn’t my first trip to Nova Scotia. Years ago, I spent a wonderful week on the waterfront in tiny Chester, Nova Scotia, at an educational retreat for a group of fiber artists. Chester is about 40 miles west of Halifax, on Mahone Bay.
We studied in a different location with a different instructor each year, and trust me, if you can’t be inspired here, you can’t be inspired anyplace.
The light on the evening waters seemed to stretch endlessly – a shimmering path across time, connecting me to something, someplace…maybe everything, everyplace.
I loved being there. It felt eerily familiar. I walked for hours along the waterfront, sketching with watercolor pencils, taking pictures, then returning to the art group in our little house-turned-classroom along the bay to try my best to translate those deep-seated emotions into something…else. Something that spoke for me, and to me.
I never realized, until this visit, why that visit had been so emotionally charged.
The wall-hanging inspired during that week in Chester is titled “I Am a River,” and spoke to unknown frontiers, fear, looking forward and back as the powerful river cannot be stopped. That must have been how my Acadian ancestors felt over and over again as they made the decision to leave France, then faced what seemed like – and sometimes were – insurmountable challenges in Acadia.
Fast forward more than 300 years, and there I was, in Chester, facing my own crossroads.
Like them, I chose the fork in the road. That uncharted, difficult, path, with unknown dangers lurking around every turn, in every shadow.
And yes, I’ve since looked back from time to time, trying to peer past the rocks and curves in the river to see what might have been, but there was no turning back.
I think those ancestors must have been speaking to me, or trying to, that week in Chester back in the 1990s. I had no way of knowing I was hearing their voices in my heart – that they were calling me. I didn’t yet know who they were, that I was standing on ancestral land, why I was so emotional, or what the future held.
During that trip, I was facing a life-changing crossroad – and a decision I was terrified to make.
After I returned home, I mustered every ounce of courage in my soul, walked away from everything familiar, and chose a different path. I was terrified. It would not be the only time.
I didn’t understand the significance then. Only later, in 2024, on that same land, did everything come rushing back.
I could never have dreamed where my life would be three decades hence – or that I would ever return to Nova Scotia. Let alone discover that I was part of Nova Scotia, and that Nova Scotia, and her people, were part of me – woven into the very strands of my soul.
The tears flowed hot and heavy.
Now, I understand.
Bridgewater
For the first few days, I stayed at a lovely VRBO at Bridgewater. Fortunately, they were able to accommodate my arrival two days early – thanks to the hurricane. It’s a charming little place, decorated in a nautical theme, located on the river, not far from La Heve.
La Heve was first established as an outpost by the Acadians in 1633, before families arrived in 1636, and Governor d’Aulnay moved the seat of Acadia to Port Royal soon after.
I knew that while my Acadian ancestors might not have walked where I slept, along the river’s edge, my Mi’kmaq ancestors assuredly did.
My mother’s grandfather was Acadian, and I wore her ring on our journey of discovery together. I talked with her a lot over the next three weeks and took photos of “us” where our ancestors lived. In return, the ancestors spoke with both of us.
At night, I could hear the nearly-silent paddles of their canoes slicing through the water, across time.
Merliguech, aka Lunenburg
The third day found me in Lunenburg where the Mi’kmaq town of Merliguech was located. This is where Philippe Mius’s son by the same name lived, at least part of the time. He married two Native women.
At Merliguech, I mean Lunenburg, I toured the harbour by boat to see what they would have seen – from the perspective of arriving by sea.
The history and fate of the Acadians and Native people have been tied together since the earliest days of French settlement. The harbour looks somewhat different today, but the entrance is the same, and those who sailed or canoed into the harbour still pass the same hills, then inhabited by the Mi’kmaq people. Philippe Mius’s son, also named Philippe, married two Mi’kmaq women, had a trading post here, and frequented these waters.
I eventually found and walked the oldest French Cemetery, along the waterfront.
The oldest stone is marked with a cross, a date of 1754, and the name Paul. It probably belongs to Paul, called “Old Labrador” by the English when they arrived. He was also known as LaVerdure, but his surname was probably Guidry. His wife was Madeleine Mieuss, the daughter of Philippe Jr., so the granddaughter of Philippe Mius d’Entremont, our founding Acadian father. Some of her children are probably buried here near Paul in unmarked graves.
We don’t know exactly when her father, Philippe Jr. died, only that he lived here in 1726 when his two sons, son-in-law, and grandson were kidnapped in the harbour by English traders, taken to Boston and hanged for piracy. He died sometime later and may well be buried here, or near here, as well.
In 1726, he would have been about 66 years old and had just borne witness to an unspeakable attrocity. Part of me hopes he died before the hangings actually occurred, but that’s very unlikely. This may have killed him. May he rest in peace.
The old cemetery behind the trees as viewed from the water, which, according to the earliest English maps, is located beside Old Labrador’s farm.
My heart ached here.
In addition to a trading post at Lunenburg, Philippe Jr. had a trading post along Second Peninsula.
I found the Second Peninsula location, which remains quite remote today.
Stunningly beautiful moss and fern-covered rocks and woodland floor.
Looking through the woods and down the hill, the beach below would be where traders landed and lashed their canoes or anchored their ships when they came to trade.
Molly Muise, a Mi’kmaq elder was the wife of the Chief of the Bear River clan, located near Digby, Nova Scotia. She may be the first Native person shown photographically as seen in this tintype. She was probably born about 1810, or so, but since we don’t know when the photo was taken, other than after 1860, we have no way to estimate her birth year. Given what we know about Philippe Jr. and his sons, she could well have been his great-granddaughter. If so, that means she’s probably the earliest known Mius in any photo.
Mius DNA still runs in the Mi’kmaq people too.
La Hève, now La Have
I spent the fourth day at the original location of Fort Sainte Marie de Grace at La Hève, now La Have. It’s here that the original Acadian families arrived in 1636. Today, a museum that stands near where the fort once stood tells their story and that of early Acadia.
These old apple trees descend from the originals planted by the earliest Acadian settlers. Planting seeds speaks to hope!
Philippe Mius d’Entremont did not live here, but it was still being used as a trading post in 1651, and there was a small village within sight of the fort, on the point. They may have stopped on their way to Fort La Tour. If so, this scene would have welcomed Philippe to Acadia.
I love learning about the Acadian culture and their lives. This oven and hundreds like it baked goods such as soldiers bread make of flour, water, salt and a leavening agent. On a good day, other grains were added too, but the best, or whitest, flour was reserved for the higher-class citizens.
Everyone, young, old, rich or poor, loves ginger biscuits which are still baked in traditional ovens and served as treats today.
I’m not so sure about Chocolate Sauerkraut Cake, though. Someone make this recipe and let me know!
I fell in love with the little local bakery on the La Have River, located on a curve on the way back to civilization.
Not only was their coffee and food absolutely delicious, but locals and the few tourists traveling that road sat together at community tables, chatting about everything and nothing. I could live here!
I hated to leave, but I needed to head back to the VRBO on the river. I was hoping for an evening river cruise by boat. Unfortunately, it had begun to rain, so that adventure was doubtful, and in fact, did not happen.
However, Lobster Poutine, a quintessential Acadian delicacy, did!
I love eating in the little local places!
It hurt me to pack up and depart on the morning of the fifth day, but I needed to head for Pubnico. Mom and I said goodbye to our ancestors whose spirits still reside here.
I felt like I had been driving backward in history, but today, I was going to drive from 1636 to about 1653.
However, I found another remnant of the past. I bought gas at a little roadside station, IN THE RAIN, where the attendant came out, pumped the gas, washed the windows and…are you ready for this…checked the air in my tires.
I literally had no idea what to do. Am I supposed to tip? How much?
Canadian hospitality is amazing!
Hello Pubnico!!!
By mid-afternoon, I had arrived in the Pubnico area.
There is actually more than one Pubnico. There’s Lower East Pubnico, Centre East Pubnico, Middle East Pubnico, East Pubnico, Pubnico, Upper West Pubnico, West Pubnico, Middle West Pubnico, Lower West Pubnico and maybe some other Pubnicos too that I missed. No, I’m not kidding.
It’s all one long continuous community that forms a horseshow around the harbour. Each “side” of the horseshoe is about 8 or nine miles long, with the west side being a peninsula, and the right side being the mainland.
The locals all know exactly where they are and what location they are talking about, and you have absolutely no idea!
All of the Pubnicos are button-busting proud of their Acadian heritage and culture, and it shows. Everyplace!
Beautiful Acadian flags, banners and painted chairs – celebrating our shared history!
Even the lighthouse is painted in Acadian colors with the traditional Acadian yellow star. The Stella Maris, or “star of the sea,” is an Acadian rallying symbol representing Acadian identity.
In Pubnico, I stayed in a spacious VRBO known as “the Old Post Office,” because, well, it’s the old post office.
Upon checking in, I discovered a lovely gift from the owner waiting for me. A beautiful little painting that graces my bookcase and reminds me of exactly how Pubnico feels every time I look at it.
I can smell the sea air.
The property was owned by a d’Entrement family. I was very excited about this, while they were very matter of fact. I’m sure they had absolutely no idea WHY I was so excited. I had never met a d’Entremont before. Over the next few days, I quickly learned that half the population of Pubnico are d’Entremonts. I only felt a little ridiculous.
The VRBO was delightful, and just look at what’s out back. That’s the harbour, and the location of the old Post Office in West Pubnico is almost directly across from Hipson’s Bridge.
So, IF Hipson’s Bridge was the location of the Mius manor house, then I’ve lucked into looking straight across the harbour at it!
Did I actually get that lucky?
Would I have been looking over at Philippe’s manor house if I were standing here 360 or 370 years ago? Or, his mill? It’s about 1.3 miles across the water to the opposite shore, so, barring fog, one could always see who was coming or going. High ground would have been a good defensive position.
Regardless of exactly where, Philippe lived along the harbour here, which was also a part of his seigneury, beginning in 1653 and throughout most of the rest of his life.
I still can’t believe I’M HERE, and I’m going to be sleeping on Philippe’s land for the next few nights.
Pinch me!
The Acadian Museum
I was so excited that I couldn’t wait for the next day to visit the Acadian Museum, less than a mile down the road.
An adjacent building holds a gift shop packed with lovely handcrafts, made by the local descendants of the original Acadian settlers.
Perhaps quilting is a skill handed down through my mother’s Acadian ancestors.
I returned to the museum daily for the next several days. The staff and volunteers were ever so friendly and answered a myriad of never-ending questions. Additionally, in celebration of the Acadian family reunions taking place in 2024, they sponsored numerous educational programs.
Museum displays include a nearly intact aboiteau, one of the sluices used by the Acadian farmers to drain saltwater from their lands to make them arable.
This aboiteau was found in 1990 on Ile-de-Grave, easily visible from the old Post Office where I was staying.
Dykes were created to prevent salt water from overwashing the fields, and water was drained from the fields through the wooden aboiteau.
Preparing the fields was one of the first things the original settlers did, so this aboiteau would probably date from the mid-1600s. Notice the wooden dowels driven into bored holes to fasten the timbers. Dowels predated metal nails and were often stronger and more durable. They still hold fast today.
A swinging wooden clapper, fit inside the box part of the sluice, clapped shut to prevent saltwater from reentering the dyked area, while allowing rainwater to wash the marsh free of salt over a period of about three years.
A marker stands outside the museum, explaining “Le Grand Derangement”, the horrific expulsion that took place beginning in 1755 in Acadia.
The marker says:
The original Cape Sable region stretched from Chegoggin to Le Passage (Barrington Passage.) As early as 1583, a French merchant was trading with the Mi’kmaq in the region, and around 1620, Charles Saint-Etienne de la Tour build a permanent trading post. In 1653, Philippe Mius d’Entremont founded Pobomcoup (Pubnico), a stable settlement devoted primarily to fishing.
The marker goes on to say that in 1756, most of the residents were deported to Boston, but in 1758, nine families in Cheggogin who had escaped the British soldiers were captured, taken to Halifax and deported to Le Havre in France. Other escapees from Abuptic, Pobomcoup and Tousquet were captured in 1759, transported to Halifax, then on to Cherbourg in France.
This information and these dates will be important later on.
In 1767, some residents petitioned and were allowed to return but discovered that their lands were occupied by British settlers, so they were unable to build their homes in the same places they had originally lived. They still settled on both sides of Pubnico Harbour. It’s interesting that what is today termed the “English side” is the East side, which is where Philippe Mius’s manor house was said to be located.
The English would have settled on the best and most prosperous farms and lands first.
I needed to find the grocery to stock the VRBO fridge since restaurants were scarce, especially for breakfast. The grocery in Pubnico is the De La Tour Co-op. If you’re traveling and want to understand a people, go to their grocery and markets.
Thank goodness for the grocery, because there are two, count ’em, two restaurants. I quickly became a regular at the Red Cap Motel Restaurant, just down the road.
Tonight’s treat was Lobster Alfredo.
You might be getting the idea that lobster is a “thing” here, and you’d be right. What is a delicacy and treat elsewhere, is a staple in all of Nova Scotia, but particularly in the fishing world of Pubnico. Every dish here has a unique flavor not found elsewhere.
That night, I stood outside, along the shoreline, as the waves lapped at my feet and moonlight glistened across the harbour, wondering what Philippe thought as he did the same thing.
The Historical Acadian Village
The next day dawned beautifully, and I was on my way three miles further south to the Historical Acadian Village where many historic buildings have been relocated over the years. It’s here, on a peninsula of land overlooking the harbour, that cultural traditions are preserved by period interpreters using time-honored tools and knowledge, reenacting Acadian farming and fishing practices used in Philippe’s time, and up until around 1900.
Welcome to Philippe’s Acadia.
In the 1671 census, Philippe had 26 cattle, 29 sheep, 12 goats, and 20 pigs, with six arpents of land under cultivation. That’s a LOT of livestock by Acadian standards.
Animals were pastured on the high ground, while the salt marshes were drained in the low ground.
Each home would have a garden.
Gardens and homes were built well above the water level.
Roses beautified the surroundings and smelled wonderful, but they served a secondary purpose, too.
The resulting rose hips ripen into a nutritious fruit that looks something like a small tomato but tastes quite tart. They are considered medicinal, often brewed into tea, but taste better after the first frost, which breaks down their starch into sugar.
Warning – don’t eat those bitter and pokey seeds!
Roses literally grow everyplace in Acadia.
Mom always loved roses.
Ok, Mom, let’s go for a walk!
Yes, I’m dressed for the day. Acadian leggings and an Acadian shirt! Jim’s matching shirt says “Acadian by Marriage.”
Acadian villages grew up around family units – in this case Philippe Mius’s family. Everyone contributed, and everyone had a unique skill.
Some trades are indispensable, and all villages need a blacksmith and forge.
Wandering through the village, I spotted what may have been a community root cellar. Root vegetables such as turnips, potatoes, radishes, parsnips, onions, and beets, as well as cabbage, squash, pumpkins and apples would have been kept in a root cellar built into a hill that kept them cool but not frozen during winter months.
In some cases, vegetables as well as apples were covered with sawdust or dirt.
Stones functioned as steps. How I’d love to have a stone from Philippe’s manor house – even his step! Just think how much history passed here.
Pubnico is a fishing village, so of course there’s a boathouse near the water. There were probably several, sprinkled among clusters of houses up and down both coasts.
Crab and lobster traps are scattered outside.
Bones, anchors and other sea and fishing-related items are found beside the community dock.
Boats of local fishermen are anchored beside the boathouse, or pulled ashore near the dock.
Looking out over the harbour. We don’t know where Philippe lived, but it was someplace near here, and his boats traversed these waters.
Not everything was work, though. Children, and perhaps even adults, skated during winter months.
Walking the path along the harbour shoreline. The fields are dyked, and you can see the salt marsh hay being harvested and stacked.
The haystacks themselves are shaped something like a hershey kiss. The wooden supports raise the hay above the water.
I can’t even begin to describe the incredible beauty of this landscape. Aside from the natural abundance, it’s evident why Philippe selected this location to build his home.
Walking along the shoreline among the trees.
These hardscrabble wild white roses somehow survive among the rocks along the path, are beautiful, and serve as a testiment to fortitude, too.
Acadians are well known for planting apple trees wherever they settled. This old apple tree remains today.
You’re invited to sit beneath the shade of this historic tree, transport yourself back in time and ponder the Acadians whose lives revolved around the sea and the seasons.
I could lose myself here.
In fact, I did, right up until hunger reminded me that it was time to eat. I hated to leave, but a rare treat awaited me.
The Acadian Village includes a cafeteria and a gift shop, of course.
Rappie Pie is a quintessential Acadian dish that you won’t find anyplace except where Acadians are cooking. Rappie Pie is a type of baked casserole that is made from grated potatoes that are then squeezed through cheesecloth to remove the water and solids. Next, broth is added along with meat, poultry or seafood of some type, along with root vegetables. Making Rappie Pie is an all-day process, culminating with this luscious golden-brown meal.
No two Rappie Pies are the same, because there are as many recipes as their are cooks – handed down over generations.
The cup of Chicken Fricot, overflowing the rim with goodness, is ABSOLUTELY TO DIE FOR, but this recipe is a long-held family secret. This alone is worth a trip back!
If you decide to give this hearty chicken root-vegetable stew a try, recipes are available online, but don’t forget the summer savory and perhaps dumplings. My mother made something similar, and I had no idea it might have had Acadian origins.
The Cemetery
After lunch, I walked across Old Church Road to visit the Old Acadian Cemetery.
While we don’t know where the original Acadian settlers were buried at Pubnico. It’s entirely possible there was more than one cemetery – perhaps one on either side of the harbour.
We do know, however, that some of the earliest settlers, great-grandchildren of Philippe Mius, born in the early 1700s, who returned in 1767, are believed to be buried here, in unmarked graves.
Not only does this cemetery hold the remains of Philippe’s descendants, it’s simply beautiful.
There are clearly many unmarked graves.
This cross was on the steeple of the second church which was demolished in 1903.
An inscription on the side of the monument reads:
Erected in 1981 to the sweet memory of our ancestors.
This plaque beneath the cemetery cross says:
This parcel of land, measuring 35 by 25 by 40 by 35 yards, was donated to the parish of Saint-Pierre of Pubnico-Ouest on June 7, 1830, by Joseph-Josué and Philippe d’Entremont, sons of Benoni.
In 1840, the parish’s second church was built on this site, later demolished in 1903.
On June 14, 1853, Archbishop William Walsh of Halifax blessed the land so it could also serve as a cemetery. The gravestones that remain date from 1854 to 1892, although the final burial here took place in 1901.
Another plaque says:
The first church had been erected on the other side of the road. On June 1, 1803, Bishop Pierre Denaut of Quebec authorized its construction. However, it was not until the summer of 1810 that Father Sigogne laid the first stone there and blessed the land to be used as a cemetery, and on October 17, 1815, it was blessed and put into use.
It [the church] could accommodate 200 people. An adjoining room served as lodging for the missionary. It was beside this structure that the present parish rectory was built a little later.
A simple white cross stands behind the one from the church steeple, anchored in the concrete base.
While this cemetery is no longer active today, it’s the oldest known cemetery in the region and well-maintained.
One of the original, now unmarked, graves.
Clearly, a hand-forged iron cross.
Was this perhaps the original Mius cemetery? We don’t know, but the Acadians who returned in 1767 clearly did.
I so wish we could ask them questions.
Visits to cemeteries are always solemn.
I always say a silent prayer as I leave.
Before I had traveled far, I spied this lovely Acadian flag tree, its flags waving in the gusty sea breeze.
And dinner? I’ll let you guess.
Back at the Red Cap, I ordered a lobster roll for dinner, but was surprised when it arrived hot instead of cold. Regional differences. Hot or cold didn’t matter, it was wonderful.
I headed back to the VRBO, because I needed to prepare.
Mom and I were setting forth on a great adventure the next day.
During my preparations for this visit, and after arriving, I was increasingly haunted by this question.
Where Did Philippe Live?
Where did Philippe Mius d’Entremont live?
Where was his manor house?
What was buried at Hipson’s Bridge?
Which of several theories is right?
Does anyone really know?
Is there any way to tell?
Are there hints?
Can we find them?
Put on your hiking boots, because we’re going to try.
I need to get a good night’s sleep, because tomorrow, early, we head out – assuming hurricane Debby hasn’t arrived yet.
What would the morning bring?
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