Please notice that this is a sunrise photo. Why was I up this early? Because I fell asleep again right after dinner. Sunrise is not something I normally experience, but I was certainly glad I was awake for this one. This is the sunrise over Scotland, the Highlands in the distance. This is the home of my ancestors, the Campbell and Younger families, and all of the Mc names in my tree. McDowell, McKee, McMahon, McNeil and McSpaden.
We woke up this morning to rain. Shortly after that, we were treated to something else. Bagpipes. I opened the door to the cabin on the cruise ship and looked outside. Standing alone, in the rain, on the dock, was a single bagpipe player. The mournful sound of the bagpipes took me back in time, to another time and place, in the remote Highlands, where another bagpipe player played in the rain. That sound, like no other, stirred my soul.
Welcome home. That’s the same thing my cousin, the Duke of Argyl who is the Campbell heir and carries the Campbell surname, said to me today. And that is how it felt here in the Scottish Highlands, the lands my ancestors left some nearly 300 years ago. Their blood in me rejoiced. I now understand why Mary Herrell said she wanted to be put up on the mountain ledge when she died and her soul taken back to Ireland. There is a part of you that never leaves your homeland.
The Highlands are magnificent in their stark beauty.
I remember one time Daryl, my cousin, and I were driving through some remote area of Claiborne County, Tennessee trying to figure out where George Campbell lived (below) and she said to me that the terrain reminded her of the highlands of Scotland.
Now I understand why the Scotch-Irish were so attracted to the Appalachian mountain highlands, the frontiers and why they were not afraid of battles. Life here was a battle, even when no one was attacking.
Driving up into the Highlands, we stopped at the summit of the gap that is called “Rest and Be Thankful.” It’s named appropriately, believe me, as shown below. I suspect it was probably the horses and draft animals that were most thankful for the rest at the top.
At Rest and Be Thankful, travelers have long welcomed the chance to draw their breath and enjoy the view as they cross the summit at 860 feet on the road that leads from Loch Long to Loch Awe via Glen Croe.
In the beginning, of course there wasn’t a road at all. There was just a track, a path, made by generations of travelers, and beaten out by herds of black cattle being taken by drovers from Argyll to the Trysts and cattle markets of the Lowlands. The making of the road, in any sense that we would now recognize it, had to wait until the 18th century. Some work was done in the 1730s on the roads in Argyll by the local government agencies, the Commissioners of Supply. However, the real impetus for the road building came after the 1715 and 1719 Jacobite Uprisings. General George Wade was sent to the Highlands to examine the military situation. His report made a number of recommendations, including the construction of forts at various points and the development of a network of roads to link them.
In 1743 it was decided to construct 44 miles of military road from Dumbarton to Inveraray, via Loch Lomond-side, Tarbet, Arrochar, Glen Croe and thus down to Loch Fyne. Major Caulfield, Wade’s Inspector of roads and successor as mastermind of the Highland roads network, was ordered to survey the route. Work started that summer, although the progress was interrupted by the outbreak of the 1745 Jacobite Uprising.
Argyll and Inveraray, its capital was strongly Hanoverian, pro-government, firmly under the control of the Duke of Argyll, a Campbell of course, one of the leading figures in the government of Scotland. So what military purpose was to be served by this road? It was hardly likely that a detachment from the garrison at Dumbarton would be marched to Loch Fyne to put down an insurrection in the peaceful glens of Argyll.
Two possible reasons exist for the high priority given to this road. The first may have been to allow the pro-government forces that could be raised in Argyll – and indeed a regiment of the Argyll Militia fought in the Culloden campaign – to move swiftly from Loch Fyne to wherever they might be needed. The other reason was perhaps less straight forward, but perhaps more plausible – to provide a conveniently smooth road to and from the Lowlands for the Duke of Argyll. The connection between the road and the Duke was emphasised by Caulfield – when the road was nearly finished, money was running out and there was a danger that a bridge at Inveraray could not be completed, Caulfield wrote “this will hurt a great man for the bridge is at his door,” as indeed it was, being barely a mile from Inveraray Castle, the Duke’s seat.
After Culloden, work recommenced, and by 1748 troops from the 24th Regiment – later the South Wales Borderers – had made the road over the summit of Glen Croe and erected a stone seat with the legend “Rest And Be Thankful,” shown below. Completion of the road to Inveraray was achieved by 1749.
On the way to Inverary Castle today, we visited Loch Lomond, the largest inland lake. The village of Luss sits on the edge of the lake and is quite beautiful.
This village looks a bit like a storybook.
Inverary is on Loch Fyne, on the other side of “Rest and Be Thankful.”
Lochs are the same things as fjords but are called lochs here. They are tidal, in some cases, very tidal. The scenery is incomparable, although I fully understand why my ancestors left. Land was not available and with the religious and political changes and upheaval, it was leave or perish. This lands lush, stark beauty must have lived in their souls for the rest of their lives, and their descendants as well as a distant memory. Loch Lomond below.
The Castle of Inverary itself was built in the early 1700s, probably just before my ancestors left for America. They would have known this castle, most likely, but would have thought of it as the “new castle.” Earlier castles are in ruins and located elsewhere, but this castle was built of the remains of a fort built in the 1400s, so our ancestors probably knew that fort quite well. This castle is very beautiful however, and it sooths my soul to be someplace my ancestors walked and lived for centuries, maybe millennia. Just down the loch a ways is Campbeltown too. Three guesses how it received its name.
The entrance to the castle spans what is today, a dry mote.
Castle armory room below. My ancestors likely used these arms.
As luck would have it, the Duke himself was in the gift shop signing books. He’s my cousin, many times removed, and he was most gracious – inviting me back anytime. Although I’m sure though he didn’t mean to stay in the family area of the castle:) That’s the two of us in the photo below. It was so much fun to meet him. He is very much a gentleman and he personally cut fabric for me – yes – I bought Campbell tartan plaid wool. I have no idea what I’ll do with it, but certainly something interesting.
For anyone who is interested in the history of the castle, the Duke and Duchess have had the castle interior professionally photographed and have written a book about the history of the Castle and the Campbell Clan. I highly recommend this book. You can purchase it online along with other Clan Campbell items.
Loch Fyne, below, at Inverary Castle, which is located just on the other side of the bridge.
This area is tidal….the water comes and goes throughout the day revealing mud flats from time to time. This is of course the bridge being referenced as at the end of the “Rest and Be Thankful” road which leads to Inverary Castle.
We ate in a lovely Pub at Loch Fyne where the placemats were slate tiles.
The roofs here are slate too. When you have this much moisture, you don’t build anything out of wood.
I also understand the woolen industry now too. Everything here needed to be wool. Wool was warm, even when wet, which is everyday, all day long, and everyone needed wool breaches.
In one of our stops, we did find a lovely woolen mill where the local wool is made into charming and useful items, all wool, of course.
I so wanted a pair of those warm woolen kilt socks!!! I had been cold for days. I bought a pair of heavy knitted woolen socks for myself and my daughter and in the middle of January, she sent me an e-mail with this photo and the title “Best Socks Ever.” Yep, those Scots knew what they were doing. I would love to have a few more pairs of these! Sounds like a good reason to return:)
We made our way back through quaint villages to the boat. We took a ferry across the Frith of Clyde, the estuary of the River Clyde as it enters the sea. The bus would be driven on to the ferry and the entire bus transported across the frith. I decided that I needed a Dramamine when I discovered that was the plan. The bus is bad enough and the boat is bad enough, but a bus on a boat. Dramamine is terrible to chew!!
Bagpipes, now more than one lonely wet person, bade us farewell. A lovely sendoff and so fitting.
Our towel guy tonight, Nessie of course, wears a Campbell tartan scarf in front of a Celtic cross ornament and a book about the Clan Campbell.
In traditional genealogies of the Clan Campbell, its origins are placed amongst the ancient Britons of Strathclyde. However the earliest Campbell in written records is Gillespie who is recorded in 1263. Early grants to Gillespie and his relations were almost all in east-central Scotland. However the family’s connection with Argyll came some generations before when a Campbell married the heiress of the O’Duines and she brought with her the Lordship of Loch Awe. Because of this the early clan name was Clan O’Duine and this was later supplanted by the style Clan Diarmid. This name came from a fancied connection to Diarmid the Boar, a great hero from early Celtic mythology.
The original seat of the Clan Campbell was either Innis Chonnell Castle on Loch Awe or Caisteal na Nigheann Ruaidh on Loch Avich. The clan’s power soon spread throughout Argyll. However, at first the Campbells were under the domination of the Lords of Lorne, chiefs of Clan MacDougall. The MacDougalls killed the Campbell chief Cailean Mór (Colin Campbell) in 1296. All of the subsequent chiefs of Clan Campbell have taken MaCailein Mor as their Gaelic patronymic.
Between 1200 and 1500 the Campbells emerged as one of the most powerful families in Scotland, dominant in Argyll and capable of wielding a wider influence and authority from Edinburgh to the Hebrides and western Highlands.
The Clan Campbell DNA Project at Family Tree DNA has 613 members, including a couple different family members of my Campbell line. The Duke of Argyl, a Campbell himself, of course, provided a Campbell timeline on the Inverary Castle website.
You know those “two brothers” stories? Everyone has them. Well, there really were two brothers, John and George Campbell born in the 1770s and found in Claiborne County, TN in the early 1800s. We believe their father was Charles Campbell of Hawkins County, Tennessee, but unfortunately, the deed signed by his children to sell his property after his death was never filed in the clerk’s office, so we don’t’ know who signed. Subsequent deeds only refer to the unfiled deed and the “Campbell heirs.” Heartbreaking. Enough to make you want to pull your hair out!
We know from a deed signed during Charles’ lifetime that he did have sons John and George, and we know that the man whose daughters the two Campbell sons married lived not far in Hawkins County from Charles Campbell who died in early 1825. John and George Campbell married Jane and Elizabeth Dobkins, respectively, about 1800 or just before, daughters of Jacob Dobkins and Dorcas Johnson.
According to the Campbell DNA project and other associated documents, trees and webpages provided by Kevin Campbell, the project administrator, it appears that my line does indeed descend from the Campbell Clan of Argyl. We are grouped in group 30, which includes the Campbell family of Argyl.
I may never know exactly how I’m related to the Duke of Argyl, but thanks to DNA, my very generous Campbell cousins who tested, and the Campbell DNA project, I know for sure that I am. And thanks to the generosity of the family of the Duke of Argyl sharing Inverary Castle with the rest of us, I can visit my homelands. It makes a difference when you know for sure that you are visiting your family ancestral land. Standing literally where your ancestors stood 500 years ago, and further, back into “time out of mind.”
Colin Campbell of Glenorchy who died in 1480.
Archibald Campbell, 1st Marquess of Argyll, who led the Campbell forces in 1645 at the Battle of Inverlochy.
The Black Watch, or Campbell Tartan.
If you’d like to hear “The Campbell’s Are Coming” on pipes and drums, click here. In the historical tidbit category, this was played by the Union as the Iron Brigade marched down the Emmitsburg Road on their way to McPherson’s Ridge at Gettysburg.
“The Campbell’s Are Coming” is the pipe hymn of the Clan Campbell, composed in 1715 by a local piper, inspired by a wedding. The Gaelic name of the tune is “Baile Ionaraora” or “the town of Inverary.” For more info and to hear the bagpipe version, click here.
Coat of Arms of the current head of the Clan Campbell, the 13th Duke of Argyll.